Seven things to know – WWD
PARIS – With 15 physical shows on the calendar, almost double last season, Paris Couture Week is starting to look a lot like its pre-pandemic incarnation.
The final list of brands organizing physical shows is as follows: Alexandre Vauthier, Alexis Mabille, Chanel, Dior, Elie Saab, Fendi, Imane Ayissi, Jean Paul Gaultier, Schiaparelli, Stéphane Rolland, Valentino, Viktor & Rolf, Yanina Couture, Yuima Nakazato and Zuhair Mourad. Additionally, there are seven physical presentations and six digital-only events.
Giorgio Armani has canceled its Privé haute couture Spring 2022 show, and Azzaro Couture has also dropped its show plans.
Iris Van Herpen, who is planning a big show in July to mark her 15th anniversary in fashion, has decided not to show a new collection this month. Instead, she presents a selection of looks from previous haute couture collections in her biannual showroom at Atelier Néerlandais in Paris.
Also at the July shows, Giambattista Valli plans to mark his first decade in haute couture with a special show.
Here are seven things to know about this week:
France tightens COVID-19 rules
With the resurgence of Omicron infections, the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, France’s fashion governing body, will apply strict safety protocols.
Following a change in French law, only vaccinated people will have access to events on the official calendar. A negative COVID-19 test will no longer be sufficient but may be required as an additional precautionary measure. Non-European nationals must convert their foreign vaccination card into a French vaccination passport with a QR code.
Schiaparelli returns to the track
The week kicks off with the Schiaparelli show at the Petit Palais on Monday at 10 a.m., marking the French fashion house’s return to the catwalks for the first time since the start of the coronavirus pandemic.
Creative director Daniel Roseberry has become the darling of celebrities like Cardi B, Beyoncé and Lady Gaga, racking up red carpet appearances and magazine covers while hosting digital-only presentations.
For spring, it promises a new minimal look, with a palette of black, ecru and gold, but there will still be plenty of whimsy and embellishment.
Dior calls on Indian artists Madhvi and Manu Parekh for its show set
The finery from Dior’s spring couture collection created by the artistic director of the women’s collections Maria Grazia Chiuri will feature the work of Indian artists Madhvi and Manu Parekh, produced in embroidery by the Chanakya workshops in Mumbai.
The show, which will take place at the Rodin Museum at 2:30 p.m. on Monday, with a resumption at 5:00 p.m., is designed to highlight the French fashion house’s creative dialogue with India. This is the first time that Chiuri, known for her collaborations with female artists, has brought a male artist into the mix.
“The objective was to highlight, through this couple of artists, the male/female dichotomy, not as opposition, but as complementarity, as perpetual enrichment”, specifies the brand.
Madhvi Parekh, born in 1942, is known for her vivid and surreal paintings inspired by folk tales and stories from her childhood spent in rural India. Her husband, born in 1939, is known for his surreal landscapes of the holy city of Benares. The work of the two artists will cover the entirety of the walls, composing a retrospective of the couple’s art.
After the show, the structure will be open to the public from Jan. 25 to 30 as a temporary exhibition.
Ahead of its two shows on Tuesday, Chanel teased another artist collaboration. Artistic director Virginie Viard invited French contemporary artist Xavier Veilhan and Norwegian photographer Ola Rindal to create the first images for the spring collection.
The brand’s ambassador, Charlotte Casiraghi, is represented on horseback through a decor punctuated with sculptures, geometric designs, rings and cockades imagined by Veilhan.
Glenn Martens unveils a unique collection with Jean Paul Gaultier
Following in the footsteps of Chitose Abe from Sacai last season, Glenn Martens will present a unique couture collection for Jean Paul Gaultier.
It will be a homecoming of sorts for the Belgian designer, who is creative director of Paris-based Y/Project, as well as Italian lifestyle brand Diesel. After staging his graduation show at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp in 2008, Gaultier recruited him as a junior designer for his women’s pre-collection and the men’s brand G2.
This will be Martens’ first stab in haute couture. It’s your chance to interpret Gaultier’s vast and eclectic design vocabulary and enjoy his atelier’s expertise in stitching and richly embellished blurring.
He teased the collection with his show Y/Project last week, which featured optical illusion body designs inspired by Gaultier’s ’90s “Cyberbaba” collection, a perennial favorite of celebrities such as Kim Kardashian West.
His unique couture collection, which will be unveiled at Gaultier’s headquarters on Wednesday at 2:30 p.m., will be under the name “Gaultier Paris by Glenn Martens from Y/Project”.
Valentino Couture and Fendi return to Paris
Valentino will hold its first physical haute couture show in Paris since the start of the pandemic, having shown its collections in Italy and online for the past three seasons. The brand is due to unveil its spring collection at 1 p.m. Wednesday at its Place Vendôme headquarters, after exhibiting at the Salomon de Rothschild hotel.
Last season, creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli collaborated with an eclectic and international group of 17 artists for his Valentino Des Ateliers couture collection presented in Venice. The brand has not yet lifted the veil on the inspiration for this season.
Kim Jones will stage her first physical couture show with an audience since her debut as artistic director of couture and womenswear collections at Fendi a year ago. His first show last January, with an all-star cast including Demi Moore, Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss, took place in a glass maze at the Palais Brongniart, which would also be the venue for Thursday’s show at 2.30pm.
Fendi’s fall 2021 haute couture collection was presented digitally with a film by Italian director Luca Guadagnino.
The High Jewelry Maisons unveil new collections
The week will include presentations of new high jewelry pieces from major houses such as Cartier, Chaumet, Boucheron, Bulgari and De Beers, alongside independent designers such as Cindy Chao and Fawaz Gruosi.
Dior will present its “Galons Dior” collection, designed by Victoire de Castellane and inspired by decorative ribbons, while the artistic director of Louis Vuitton watches and jewelry, Francesca Amfitheatrof, will unveil the second chapter of her “Bravery” collection, marking the 200th anniversary of the birth of Louis Vuitton.
Paris inaugurates exhibitions on Yves Saint Laurent and Azzedine Alaïa
Visitors who stay until the weekend will be able to admire the extensive exhibition celebrating the 60th anniversary of the house of Yves Saint Laurent. The late couturier’s creations will be exhibited in six major Parisian museums alongside some of the works of art that inspired them.
Imagine her Mondrian dress from 1965, juxtaposed with the Mondrian painting to which she refers, at the Center Pompidou. Or a period polka-dot dress from 1986, displayed next to fragments of Claude Monet’s version of “Lunch on the Grass” at the Musée d’Orsay.
Similar pairs will be presented at the Museum of Modern Art in Paris, the Louvre Museum, the Picasso Museum and the Yves Saint Laurent Museum in the French capital as part of the exhibition entitled “Yves Saint Laurent Aux Musées”. at the Museums”) scheduled from Saturday to May 15.
As for the last exhibition of the Azzedine Alaïa Foundation, it will dive into the period between the Tunisian designer’s departure for France in 1956 and the launch of his first ready-to-wear collection in 1982. In the meantime, Alaïa works for private clients including screen legend Greta Garbo. “Alaïa avant Alaïa” (“Alaïa before Alaïa”) is due to take place from Friday to October 24.